What Are Traditional Indian Clothes Called? A Complete Guide to Indian Ethnic Wear

Indian traditional clothing is a diverse collection of garments that embody centuries of cultural, climatic, and social influences across the subcontinent. These outfits are commonly referred to as ethnic wear or traditional Indian clothes, and they range from flowing sarees to tailored sherwanis.

Historical Roots of Indian Ethnic Wear

From the Vedic period through Mughal reign and British colonial era, Indian clothing evolved in response to trade, conquest, and regional craft traditions. The earliest references in the Rig‑veda mention cloth made of cotton and silk, while early sculptures show men wearing dhotis and women draped in simple sarees. Mughal influence introduced intricate brocades and the practice of layering garments, giving rise to the modern sherwani and lehenga. British rule prompted the hybridization of Western tailoring with Indian silhouettes, evident in the churidar‑styled kurta.

Regional Variations - What Different Areas Call Their Attire

India’s vast geography creates distinct naming conventions and styles. In the north, the term “salwar kameez” refers to a loose pant (salwar) paired with a tunic (kameez). In Gujarat and Rajasthan, the same outfit may be called a “churidaar” when the salwar is fitted at the ankle. In the south, the dhoti” or “mundu” is the go‑to lower garment for men, while women favor the saree”. East India’s Bengal region popularized the “panjabi” shirt for men, whereas West India’s Maharashtra favors the “dhoti‑kurta” combo.

Key Garments in Indian Traditional Clothing

• Saree is a single unstitched length of cloth (5‑9 meters) draped around the body, traditionally worn by women across all regions.
• Salwar Kameez combines a loose‑fit pant with a tunic, widely popular in North India and Pakistan.
• Lehenga is a heavily embroidered skirt paired with a fitted blouse (choli) and a dupatta, often chosen for weddings.
• Kurta is a straight‑cut, long shirt that can be paired with leggings, pajama, or a dhoti, suitable for both men and women.
• Sherwani is a formal coat worn over a kurta, characterized by a closed front, stand‑collar, and often embellished with gold thread.
• Dhoti is a rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and legs, traditionally worn by men in the east and central states.
• Mundu is the South Indian counterpart of the dhoti, typically lighter and worn with a shirt or kurta.
• Churidaar is a tightly fitted pant worn with a kurta or sherwani, creating a “bunched” effect at the ankle.

Fabric Choices and Embellishments

Materials reflect climate and status. Cotton dominates in hot, humid regions (e.g., Bengal, Gujarat), while silk thrives in cooler northern and southern courts (e.g., Banarasi silk, Kanchipuram silk). Woolen shawls such as Pashmina are prized in Kashmir. Embellishment techniques-zari work, gota lace, mirror embroidery, block printing-signal regional identity. For instance, Phulkari stitching is iconic to Punjab, whereas Kalamkari prints belong to Andhra Pradesh.

How to Choose and Wear Traditional Indian Attire

1. Identify the occasion: weddings demand lehenga or sherwani; daily wear can be cotton saree or salwar kameez.
2. Pick a fabric suited to the climate: breathable cotton for summer, silk for winter ceremonies.
3. Consider the fit: a well‑tailored kurta should fall just above the knees; a dhoti must wrap securely to avoid slipping.
4. Match colors with cultural norms: red and gold dominate bridal wear, while white is reserved for mourning.
5. Accessorize appropriately: bindis, bangles, and embroidered mojris complement women’s outfits; turbans or pagri complete a sherwani look.

Modern Twists on Classic Garments

Designers now blend Western tailoring with Indian silhouettes. A popular trend is the “fusion saree” where the pallu is shortened like a Western cape, or the “crop‑top lehenga” that shortens the blouse for a contemporary vibe. Sustainable fabrics-organic cotton, recycled silk-are gaining traction, reflecting global eco‑consciousness while preserving heritage.

Related Cultural Concepts

Traditional attire doesn’t exist in a vacuum. It intertwines with festivals (e.g., Diwali, Pongal), religious rituals (e.g., puja dress codes), and even regional cuisines-colorful sarees often match the hues of a celebratory feast. Moreover, Indian classical dance forms like Bharatanatyam and Kathak have their own costume systems that draw heavily from ethnic wear, reinforcing the link between apparel and artistic expression.

Where to Find Authentic Ethnic Wear

Authentic pieces can be sourced from heritage markets-like Delhi’s Chandni Chowk, Kolkata’s New Market, and Jaipur’s Bapu Bazaar-or from reputable online portals that partner directly with weavers. Look for certifications such as Handloom Mark or Geographical Indication (GI) tags that guarantee origin and quality. When buying abroad, ensure the retailer provides detailed fabric composition and return policies.